Turkish Muse

My Favorite Thing About Turkey: Meyhane Sokak in Bodrum, a Liberal Oasis

Jeff and I are in Paris this week, and while we're gone, I'm publishing a few guest posts on people's favorite thing about Turkey for your enjoyment! Today's guest post is from Jack Scott.

July 2010 and it was Türk sezon. Bodrum was heaving with an abundance of people of all generations drawn from across the country taking their annual holidays before the start of Ramazan. The narrow streets were grid-locked and the air was filled with the piercing sound of angry monotone horns.

We ventured out into the sticky evening to imbibe the ambiance and sink a few jars. Slowly snaking behind the marina promenaders, we headed for Meyhane Sokak, a narrow lane off the bazaar and home to a cluster of small bars exclusively frequented by Turks. The place overflowed with good-humored trendy young things swaying to the deafening Turkopop. We managed to squeeze onto one of the tall bench tables lining the lane to enjoy the tequila-slamming crowd.

Our neighbor on the congested bench seemed particularly taken with Liam and popped a cherry in his mouth. Our forward friend was the manager of a particularly famous Turkish pop band and invited us to meet the band at a neighbouring club. We politely declined.

Next up were four young Turks, two of each gender. The ladies wore impossibly short shorts and skimpy strappy tops. Ladies of the night, I assumed. I could not have been more wrong. All four were European Turks visiting Bodrum and old friends. Conversation flowed as quickly as the alcohol and before we knew it, the only British punters were accepted into the throng with open arms. The atmosphere was electric.

We spotted a couple of beef cakes standing provocatively outside the bar opposite. On the adjacent table was a pair of fey gays. Had we finally reached the end of the Yellow Brick Road? We’d happened upon the only almost gay bar in Bodrum and all completely by chance. We shall return.

About the Author: Jack Scott describes himself as "a diminutive, myopic, washed up ex-pretty boy with my best years behind me, living in Turkey with a distinctly perverse and frivolous view of the world. I write about my experiences to stave off the inevitable descent into alcoholism." Jack blogs at Perking the Pansies.

In Fethiye: Sundial Hotel

Before going to Fethiye and Kayakoy last week, we took the advice of fellow bloggers Turkey's for Life and booked a room at the Sundial Otel. Perched on the slope from Fethiye to Ölüdeniz, the hotel affords stunning views of the city.

The day we arrived, after a five-hour bus ride from Izmir, a birthday party was going on at the hotel, so we ordered lunch and a couple of Efes and celebrated the start of the tourism season and summer.

Of course, our room was pretty sweet too. Actually, there were two rooms, which I'm not entirely sure is standard, but we certainly were happy with it! There was a kitchen area with a sofa, table, sink and refridgerator; a bathroom to the left (not pictured); and the sleeping area in the back.

We ended up missing watching the sun set over the Mediterranean -- which I have been told is a most gorgeous site from the Sundial -- because we were too busy hanging out at Deep Blue Bar with some friends, but I have a feeling we'll be back this summer.....

Practical Info: Getting to the hotel can be a bit tricky the first time you go, as when you get off the dolmuş, there are no signs to mark the way to walk to the hotel. Because of this, I recommend taking a taxi from the otogar (see below) the first time you go. When the taxi turns left at the traffic light up the dirt road, pay attention to the few turns and twists he takes; then you'll know how to walk there yourself when the dolmuş drops you off in the same location.

Sundial Otel, tel: +90 252 611 14 19, email: info@sundialotel.com. To get there: take a taxi from the otogar (12 TL) or a dolmuş marked Taşyaka/Karagözler (1.50 TL). If you take a dolmuş, tell the driver you're going to the Sundial; he'll left you off at a traffic light, from where you turn left and walk uphill for about 5 minutes or so. At end-April 2011, we paid 120 TL for our room(s), though price will change depending on availability and season.

Fethiye: First Impressions

Last weekend Jeff and I made our way south to the lovely coastal town of Fethiye where we met up with the people behind Turkey's For Life and spent an awesome day cafe hopping and strolling through the town. I hadn't been to Fethiye in more than 10 years and though I'd heard again and again from people over the years that it is one of the most gorgeous places in Turkey, I just hadn't managed to get there until now!

We started our stroll along the harbour, and I was filled yet again with jealousy that all of these lovely towns along the coast of Turkey -- except Izmir! -- have gorgeous harbours where you can take a boat cruise or yacht tour.

I also couldn't help be struck by how international Fethiye was. I was particularly amused by the Indian restaurant on the "Gaza Strip" serving omelettes and spaghetti bolognese. And there were certainly plenty of places eager to lure us in with the various sports matches on big-screen televisions.

Though I will admit that I had a most excellent curry -- something impossible to find in Izmir -- at Cafe Cafe, which really made me happy.

We briefly explored the theatre at Fethiye, a rather run-down affair in the middle of town but one that is still used today for various performances, such as one last week.

We managed to while away several hours on Saturday night at Deep Blue Bar in Pasapur, which I don't have any photos of unfortunately, but trust me when I say the bar is awesome! We shall definitely be going back on our return to Fethiye.

On Sunday evening, we walked through town with our backpacks not really looking for anything to do in particular but needing to kill some time before our 11.30pm bus took off for Izmir. And, wonderfully, we stumbled upon Fethiye's famous fish market, where you purchase whatever seafood you want from the fishmongers, then take it to a nearby restaurant and have them cook it for you.

It is quite a deal actually. You take your fish, prawns, squid or whatever you want to eat to any of the restaurants surrounding the market where, for 5 TL, they'll cook it for you and serve you salad and bread. Drinks, of course, are sold separately.

Unfortunately, though, we didn't eat there because we didn't want to stuff ourselves full of levrek before sitting on a bus for 5 hours. Next time!

Actually, there is a lot we have to do next time we are in Fethiye. We have to get to Çalış Beach, Ölü Deniz, and explore more of Paspatur, the shopping district. I'm already looking forward to going back to Deep Blue and sipping an Efes while watching the tourists go by!

Next: Our hotel recommendation for Fethiye!

Start of the Summer Season

The start of the summer season in Turkey is always a lot of fun for me. It's when all the hotels along the coast dust off their tables, fill the pools, wash the linens and ready themselves for the onslaught of tourists, travelers, backpackers and expats who come down to the Aegean and the Mediterranean every year for a bit of sun.

Every year I get a bit giddy as I notice the shops staying open later, the tour buses parked on the Kordon in Izmir, and the random German and French I begin hearing in Alsancak. Tourism in Turkey truly is seasonal: it begins in late April/early May and runs until October, when most coastal hotels close up shop for the winter and take a much-deserved break.

So even though Jeff and I took a few trips over the winter -- namely to Bergama and a day trip to Nysa and Aphrodisias -- it wasn't until last Saturday, when we were sitting in Fethiye under a gorgeous sun by a sparkling pool overlooking the city, that it hit me: the tourism season had officially begun!

Naturally, we had to celebrate with an ice cold Efes.

What about you? Does anything in particular kick off tourism season, or more generally, summer, for you?

The Aegean Work Ethic

Over the weekend Jeff and I were at a party for his work and got to talking with some people about the variable work ethic (some people call it laziness) of people from the Aegean region and, specifically, people in Izmir.

One guy says, "Well, if we're lazy, you know who's even lazier? The Cypriots. They're the laziest."

And another guys say, "What? No way. The Italians are the laziest of all. And the Greeks!"

"Oh yeah!" another guy pipes in. "And the Spanish. And the Portuguese."

People all start nodding and murmuring in agreement.

"Basically, people all along the Mediterranean and the Aegean are lazy," one guy sums up.

"Yeah, and you know what other people say, like you Americans and the Europeans?" says the guy who said that the Italians and Greeks are the laziest of all. "They all say 'Oh, but they live a slower pace of life and they really know how to enjoy themselves and they don't rush.' Yeah, well, that means they don't work!"

This elicits a hearty laugh from the group, and I have to admit, I do agree with him.

The funny thing is, I read all the time, especially in travel writing, about the slower pace of life along the Aegean and the Mediterranean, about how people there really know how to live and don't take life too seriously. They have a better work-life balance, Americans like to say.

And while most of us like to wax poetic about that lovely lifestyle and how wonderful it is, many people don't realize that the Aegean and Mediterranean propensity to relax means that cafes, restaurants, barbers, produce shops, electricians, even museums, will close at random hours, especially in the summertime, leaving tourists confused and perplexed as to what, exactly, they are supposed to do between 1 p.m. and 6 p.m.

And while on the Turkish side of the Aegean, most places don't actually shut down for the afternoon in the summer (though some places do), it's difficult to get anybody to do anything around here in the afternoons. But would you want to fix a leaky faucet at 3 p.m. in 35 degree heat? Neither would I.

I'm looking forward to summer already.