Turkish Muse

That Magazine

There's a new magazine in town and it is purporting to be quite unlike any of the others in town. If you run in certain circles in Istanbul, chances are that you may have seen That Magazine in various bookshops and cafes around the Beyoğlu area.

The new publication doesn't list the coolest, hippest places to be seen in Taksim, like many English-language, expat-oriented publications; instead it's really going for more of a contemplative angle on life in Istanbul.

In talking to Simon Johnson, That Magazine's editor, via email recently about his decision to start the publication, I was thrilled to discover that he was familiar with an English-language publication that made the rounds in Istanbul in the late 1990s called Istanbullshit. The magazine, as you might guess by its name, was weird, alternative and generally amazing for the expat community here. It didn't last, unfortunately, but I think Simon's got something else going here that just might.

TM: First, a bit about yourself: Where are you from originally and how long have you been in Istanbul/Turkey? What do you do for a living?

Simon: I am from Stratford On Avon, which you may or may not consider to be the cultural epicentre of the Literary Universe, given that it is Shakespeare's birthplace. So my cultural heritage is mighty, be warned! I have been living in Istanbul for 15 or so years (the memory fades in the autumn of my life...) I am attempting to earn a living via That Magazine which I have recently set up and now edit and seek sponsorship for!

TM: What gave you the idea to start That Magazine?

Simon: First off, since my university days, I have always wanted to be an editor. Then years ago in my third year or so here in Istanbul in the late 1990s there appeared a zine in English called Istanbullshit, which was basically the only magazine of its kind and was therefore compulsive reading. It was both enraging and highly amusing, amateuristic yet full of underground vitality. I am not sure how long it lasted but suffice to say it didn't last. Then I was left with Time Out in English (or it started up a little after Istanbullshit went down). Time Out just didn't and still doesn't seem to do it for me, wasn't aimed at people like me, (I was a teacher at the time). It lacked the interactive feel and honesty of Istanbullshit (which although I have the utmost respect for, I didn't really like but read avidly). Then I discovered Yin Yoga (in Star Wars terms, the FORCE). This, amongst innumerable other positive things, unleashed a new wave of creativity and drive in me that is more in tune with the general flow of this wonderful city and got me off my arse to try and produce something new again.

TM: What do you hope to achieve with the magazine?

Simon: I hope to collaboratively build a magazine that reflects and shares the expressive desires, experiences, ideas and knowledge of those readers, writers, artists and scientists that are attracted to it. I hope that it becomes a tool for people to connect, create, expore and live good in this wonderful city.

TM: Who is the magazine for?

Simon: It is broadly for the English-speaking community of Istanbul. However, it does not aim to serve the expat community in particular.

TM: How often do you plan to publish it?

Simon: At the moment seasonally, once every threemonths. The next issue will be for the months of March, April and May.

TM: How would you like to see the magazine grow over time?

Simon: The first thing I want to see is that it get fatter through attracting huge amounts of content from all you good people out there! Ultimately I want it to become a renowned part of at least a small section of the cultural consciousness and life of Istanbul.

TM: Where can people find the magazine?

Simon: The fantastic English branch of Pandora Bookshop on Büyükparmakkapı Sok. in Istanbul are distributing it for free and cafes, galleries and clothes shops around the usual parts of town like Tunel, Cihangir, Taksim Square, Bilgi University Campus, Bosphorous University Campus Orta Kantin, Kadikoy. If anyone would like it distributed at their workplace or favourite hang out I would love it if they contacted me (info below).

TM: For people interested in sending submissions, what kinds of contributions are you looking for?

Simon: All contributions of any type (visual art, literary fiction, poetry, science articles) are considered about any topic. The only thing I don't want is adverts disguised as articles, though I am looking for people who want to give adverts and sponsorship.

Interested in contributing to That Magazine, being a sponsor, or distributing copies in your shop or cafe? Contact Simon Johnson by email at dubfield@yahoo.com.

Q&A with Gundula Strittmatter, InterNations Ambassador

If you haven't already heard, InterNations (IN) is a global community of expats all around the world and they've got a chapter in Istanbul. I've written about IN before as part of a list of social networking sites for newcomers to Turkey, and recently chatted with the IN Istanbul ambassador, Gundula Strittmatter, about the expat community in Istanbul.

When did you first visit/move to Istanbul?

I moved to Istanbul in August 2005. It was only three months after my first visit ever to this amazing city. Before coming to Istanbul I lived in Beijing, China for a couple of years. My husband, who is a journalist, used to be the China correspondent for a German newspaper. After having been there for almost eight years he thought it was time for a change. And we were lucky as his newspaper offered him to become their Turkey correspondent. From the first minute on I was very excited about moving here as I had heard so many great things about Istanbul. It was a whole new world for us and we were thrilled that we got the chance to live here and explore the city.

What do you do for a living in Istanbul?

In Beijing I worked as a producer for an American-Chinese TV production company and I was in charge of a program on China Central Television (CCTV). I was just about to look for a new job in Istanbul when -- only ten days after our move here -- I found out that I was pregnant! I am currently a full-time mom of two wonderful boys (ages 2 and 4). In my spare time I do some voluntary work for IN like planning future get-togethers.

What do you think are the best and most difficult parts of life as an expat in Istanbul?

In my opinion the best part of being an expat is the privilege of being given the chance to explore a new country as one of its residents: its culture, its people, its food, etc. I think it really changes your life and you also start seeing your own country from another perspective. That is a big plus and it is especially true for Germans coming to Turkey as there are 3 million Turks living in Germany now without the Germans really knowing them. There are many clichés about Turkey and the Turks circulating in Germany which urgently need correction.

The most difficult part for me is definitely the language: I have been struggling for such a long time already working on my Turkish. Compared to other languages (and I speak Chinese) it is such a difficult language and it took me months until I could finally order my food in Turkish… But it sure is worth all the effort!

When was the Istanbul IN community founded?

IN was founded in September 2007. I organized the first IN Istanbul get-together in March 2008 at Leb-i Derya. 30 members showed up and I was happy to finally meet them offline and make so many good friends right away.

How did you come to be the Istanbul IN Ambassador?

My brother, Malte Zeeck, is one of the three founders of IN. I was able to follow the development of IN from the very first idea on to its realization, and I was one of the first people to sign up because I believe in its concept of reaching out to people. Malte asked me if I wanted to take the position of local Ambassador because I had been living in Istanbul for over three years already and I've also been an expat in China before coming here. Being a full-time mother, I was happy about the opportunity to meet other people from all walks of life and not only other mothers in playgroups.

What kinds of benefits are offered to Istanbul members?

Together with my Co-Ambassador I organize monthly get-togethers for our Istanbul community. We always meet at different locations so that our members are getting to know new places at the same time. Currently around 250 people attend these events every month.

IN also has an informative online Istanbul guide where members can look for recommended restaurants, schools, hotels, shops, etc or add their own favorite places in town. Furthermore our members can exchange their experiences finding housing, schools, getting work permits etc. in the forum. We have an event calendar that shows highlights of the coming days and weeks. IN members can also add their own events here.

Recently new IN groups have been opened by some of our members: For example there is the “Nightlife Istanbul” group. The group moderator sends us weekly updates of what’s going on in town and arranges special discounts at popular nightclubs for us. Then there is the “Ethnic Cuisine Group Istanbul”. They organize regular dinners at selected restaurants serving “the real stuff”, for example Thai, Palestinian, Japanese etc. I am running the “Parents in Istanbul” group. So there are plenty of ways for our Istanbul community to meet and to network.

What do you hope that IN members in Istanbul get out of joining the organization?

We all know how hard it can be if you are planning to move to a new country. There are so many questions we need to solve: In which area should we look for housing? How do we find the ideal school for our kids? How can we find a helper or a nanny? IN members can easily ask these questions in the forum or directly address our Istanbul scouts and get answers. So even before they actually arrive here there are able to make contacts with people living here that might develop into real friendships once they are here.

At the same time many of our members have been living here for several years already and still attend our events as they enjoy meeting people representing more than 30 nationalities. I have heard so many positive stories of our members already, how they found a job or a house through IN, met the ideal flatmate or made wonderful friends. I enjoy giving our members a platform to meet online or offline in a casual and relaxed atmosphere over drinks and pleasant conversations. I want to help people settling in and connect them with each other and thus letting them enjoy their life in Istanbul even more.

How can expats living in other areas of Turkey get involved with IN?

There is an Ankara community already. Also one of our members has recently set up an “IN Southern Turkey” group. She will start organising monthly IN get-togethers in Bodrum this summer, once IN headquarters have completely installed this new local community. Until then everybody is always welcome to take part in the forum discussions, be it the local or the world forum. And as there are more than 250 local communities worldwide, it is always fun to see what IN members in New York, Reykjavik, Madrid, Toronto, Rome or Dubai etc are talking about at the moment.

What advice do you have for people who are thinking about moving to Istanbul?

Hos geldiniz! Don't hesitate, come! Istanbul is an amazing city and you will love it here! Sign up for IN (basic membership is free) and start connecting with other people living here now.

5 Questions: Helena, an expat with a press visa

Today kicks off a new feature at Turkish Muse: 5 Questions. There is where I get to ask 5 questions of an expat living in Turkey about something interesting that they have done, whether it's open a business, write a book, buy a house or snag a great apartment in a cool neighborhood.

Helena is leaving Istanbul in September, but before she goes, she answered a few questions for Turkish Muse for its inaugural "5 Questions" feature. She first came to Turkey in July 2007 to be abroad and to take a job at Oxford Business Group, a publisher of international economic information. Since then, she has done some writing and has managed to get a press visa to live in Turkey. Here's how she did it:

How did you go about getting a press visa? Walk me through the steps you had to go through to get it.

First, you need to be sponsored by a media organization. (It doesn't matter where they're based). They need to write a letter for you verifying that you are working for them in Turkey. With this letter in tow, you need to apply for a journalist visa from the Turkish consulate in your country. This is a single entry, three-month long visa. During these three months, you need to apply for the actual press card in Turkey. See more info here.

You need to be present when you submit the application to provide a signature in person. (Someone else can pick up the press card for you when it's ready in a week or so). Along with the application form, you need a letter from the consulate of the country your media organization is based in basically saying they're not responsible for anything you write. (It's a standard letter written in Turkish. Make an appointment beforehand). You don't need an appointment when submitting the press card application. 

What was the most difficult part of obtaining a press visa?

It's just time consuming.

What's the biggest benefit of having a press visa?

Free bus and ferry rides! You can also probably get into events for free if you take the initiative and are planning to cover the event. I also receive invitations now and then for concerts and conferences.

How much did the visa cost?

The fee has gone up since I applied but for Americans it was $37 in December 2008. The press card itself doesn't cost anything. I applied for a residence permit after and that was 90 TL.

You're leaving Turkey in August. What will you miss most about the country?

Cost of living is unbeatable. The Bosphorus view from my flat. My friends. Traveling around Europe on a whim.

Do you know of someone who would make a good feature for "5 Questions"? Turkish Muse is looking for expats in Turkey who have done something that would be of interest to other expats. If you know of someone (including yourself), send an email to barbara@turkishmuse.com.